Nepal Trek Day 5: Bamboo – Dovan – Himalaya – Deurali

Tip: Multiple places in Nepal can have the same name, one example on the Annapurna trails being Deurali. There’s a Deurali between Ghorepani and Tadapani, and a Deurali between Dovan and Machaputre Base Camp. Don’t get confused.

Moving from Bamboo, it began with an upslope, followed shortly after my a downslope before moving down to cross the river. Then it was more climbing up and down muddy trails before crossing the river once more. This requirement may have been partially due to the avalanches and/or landslides that occasionally (rarely) damage the trail sufficient to warrant a detour.

We passed by Dovan early (more on that in a later post), and continued on for a long period of time to reach Himalaya where we had lunch. There was an interesting black dog that appears to have been traumatised by Nepalis previously, she would bark on and on whenever a basket (such as those carried on a headstrap) appeared.

Afterwards, it was a 2 hour trek to Deurali. First we had to pass by Hinku Cave, a popular sheltered resting point amongst tourists and locals alike, then cross a glacier with water gushing underneath.

Tip: You might be tempted to stand on the glacier, marvel and snap multiple pictures, this tends to give your guide palpitations given that ice being underrun by water tends not to be entirely stable. In the off chance that the ice breaks, you are screwed. SCREWED. So snap your pictures by the side, keep your camera handy, use it on the go and don’t linger too long on the ice.

Finally, bits of snow dotting the landscape indicated we were approaching Deurali. It was getting a little bit chilly by the time we arrived. As there was no shower available, we had to improvise with the army-style powder bath.

Tip: Bring lots of wet-wipes and the SAF anti-fungal foot and body powder. The poweder-bath technique involves using 1 wet wipe to clean the face (first), then perhaps the neck and anterior torso. A second to clean the arms and the back. A third for the underwear region +/- lower limbs. Then the liberal use of powder. You’ll be surprised at how refreshed you feel. (nothing to be done for the hair, unfortunately)

Afterwards, H and I played cards in their room until it was time to order dinner (usually around 5pm for 6pm dinner) and found that the dining room was heated and that every guest had a heating surcharge of Rs70/person. Well, if we’re paying for it… so we ended up learning and playing gin rummy and open rummy from/with our porter-guide and one porter, only interrupted by dinner.

Retired early for the night. The next day, in order to cross the avalanche areas early, we’ll be setting off by 0630hrs.

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